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Cinematographer tools: Building a Director’s Finder.

Welcome back to Tstops.

A few weeks ago, half way through Nigel Stanford’s Follow up to the Cymatics Music video, I had a problem.   The shoot involved nearly continuous motion control setups on a Gazelle MoCo rig.   We were shooting nearly blind because of it.  Let me give a bit more background on the problem.  The Gazelle, pictured below, is a large motor controlled robotic dolly with a motor boom arm and three axis motor head attached.   It is capable of amazing things, but framing a shot is not the easiest thing in the world.  The Gazelle is tethered to an archaic floppy disk driven PC running DOS, and it’s position and movements are essentially a series of  coordinates fed into the machine.  Our Operator, as patient as a saint, would have to manually move the camera attached to the Gazelle around with what looks like an industrial control remote.  Think, WWII radio phone with several buttons and a thick cable tethering to the Gazelle.  In order to find a frame we had to painstakingly move the dolly, then the boom, then the head, decide on the lens, then find the exact frame.  It was slow, agonizing and considering our tight schedule, meant precious time was being wasted.

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The Gazelle being moved into position.
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The Rigged Phantom 4K Flex.


We needed to find the frame faster.  The best solution is the director’s finder.   I can quickly take a lens, throw it on, and frame up the shot exactly where I want it.  The best part is that you can do it with the lens in question; then see the DOF, geometry and necessary camera height immediately.   All without moving a camera or distracting the operator and AC’s from prepping the rig for the next shot.  Often times a director’s finder are rare on set, especally with the shrinking budgets these days, it’s a tough fight to get one for a week, if the rental house even carries one at all… When it does, it’s often huge, heavy and PL only.  Often film equipment is built to survive a war, and it shows when you see how immensely they are built.   To complicate the matter further, not every shoot is on PL lenses these days.  ( This one was, but just for arguments sake)  HV2-Dir-Finder_1DenzViseurdeChamps02-H021-PLV1
It is a piece of kit that I deem mandatory from now on.  They save incredible amounts of time, energy and in turn, save money for the production and helps keep intact the backs of your crew.  I looked into purchasing one, but not shockingly the prices of even used PL finders are astronomical, anywhere between $3,000 and $7,000 dollars.   There had to be some solution that had all the abilities of bigger finder without the size or costs involved.   So… I set out to build my own.  With the plethora of S35 (APSC) cameras out there these days a solution had to be at hand.  I priortized affordability because lets face it, no one will rent a home made viewfinder no matter how necessary, or liked it is when it actually on set.   So it needs to be as good as possible, but also as affordable as possible.   It had to be flexible in what lenses were useable.  Meaning interchangeable mounts.  This eliminated Canon DSLRs immediately, no PL ability.    I really wanted a tiny tiny device.   Something I would actually carry to work with me.    I did a bit of research and this is what I came up with.

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My Directors Finder with an ARRI Ultra Prime attached. Small, Check. Light, Check. Flexible, Check. Cheap(ish), Check.

Homemade, but damn good.  There is a surprising benefit to using an all digital director’s finder, I can set the shutter speed and ISO to match my main camera so not only can I see the shot, but I can get a rough idea on how the light will look, plus snapping stills or a quick video clip means I can reference the shot later when fine tuning the position of the A camera.   I will list the parts below if you should choose to make one yourself.  Its a Sony a5000 Emount advanced point and shoot photo camera, a PL to Emount adapter by Metabones and a simple pistol grip.  I also got a smart EF to Emount adapter should I need to go with Rokinons, Canon CNE’s or Zeiss CP2 lenses in EF mount.   The a5000 was the best choice for me, as I was able to find a good condition used one on Ebay.

The parts:

The Camera: Sony a5000 (I got a used one ~$160)

I went with the older model, as they are easier to find used on Ebay, there is a newer A6000 available.  This camera is APS-C sensor, and damn close to S35 frame size.  It matches most high end and middle level Cine cameras with relative accuracy.  It offers 16:9 frame and is manually controllable for Iris, ISO and shutter speed.  It also has an articulating screen so you can frame low to the ground, and tilt the screen up flat.   I recommend a few spare batteries.  In live view, it goes through them relatively quickly.  Two batteries last about a day of framing between takes.  The camera also takes SD cards of which I had 20 lying around. I’m sure you do too.

The mounts:

PL: Metabones PL to E Mount  ~$370 – Since there would be potentially $30,000 lenses hanging of this thing, I wanted to opt for the best PL adapter I could get. No use if the lens falls off…..

EF: Commlite Autofocus/IS EF to E mount Smart Adapter ~$79.00 – While the Commlite is not a mainstream brand the quality is quite good, it locks in tight and has fully functional, IS, AF and Iris all work perfectly with EF lenses.

The pistol Grip:  Barska ACCU-Grip, ~$15.00 – Surprisingly inexpensive, but not too bad.   That said, i’d always two hand the system when a costly lens is mounted.  Very light.  That said, I just found this: $15 also, but made of aluminum Opteka Aluminum Hand grip

All in, it ran about $700 with shipping/Tax.  Not exactly cheap, but it does have a few perks to help justify it.  I now own a PL to Emount adapter ( helllllllo A7s!!!!!), I now own a good EF to Emount adapter ( helllllo A7RII!!!!) and I also now have a small, feather light point and shoot sized camera that can take great glass, and has nearly DSLR quality.  I took the following photo with it at a family function couple weeks ago… its image quality is rather stunning for such a small camera.

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Kodachrome Lut in DXO Filmpack
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Kodachrome 64 LUT in DXO filmpack

 

All in all, its not an interchangeable ground glass $7,000 ARRI viewfinder that shows EXACTLY the frame your gate is set to…  It’s just meant to get you close, and fast.   With the speed we shoot nowadays its critical.  It saved me on the MoCo shoot, as I could just set a frame, show the operator the exact shot, and get to where we need to be in one quarter the time.   This goes for any shoot you will ever do on Steadicam, MOVI, Dolley, even a heavy camera on sticks.  Remember, just for finding a frame,  using a Canon Zoom that covers your primes focal ranges counts.  A mm is a mm is a mm.  For the projects where the budget allows, yes a ground glass viewfinder with true frame guides is best, but to have the same ability to move fast can be very useful for any production big or small.

 

Thank you for reading!

Follow me on Instagram , or Twitter for more images and stories from set!

-Timur

The Kung Fu of operating camera.

Welcome back to Tstops.

Its been a while, but for good reasons.   I recently spent a considerable amount of time in Singapore DPing a TV series for the national broadcast station MediaCorp.  At the time we started this project, an unfamiliar camera to me, the ARRI Amira was the tool of choice for the production, they wanted an all handheld look, and the Amira is the best there is for that function.  I will go much further into detail on this project in another Work Log post, but carrying a 30lb piece of Aluminium, glass and magnesium on your shoulder for a month you come to realize a few things.  First, I LOVE operating a camera handheld.  The shot clock as I came to call it, the timecode in the view finder would tick by and minutes would pass by in what felt like seconds.  Entire one take action scenes, with the camera going from ground level, to my shoulder level while sprinting after actors and stunt people fighting, jumping over grip equipment and ducking under steel beams all with my eye glued to the viewfinder would just somehow… happen.  I would hear cut, and sort of “wake up”, sometimes 100 feet from where I started with what looked like an obstacle course between end point and start.   I am not the most athletic guy on earth, but with my eye in a viewfinder, somehow my mind goes blank, my focus goes into overdrive and a sort of dance ensues and my body just made it happen.  When operating handheld, your position in relation to the actors is ever changing and you become in a part of the performance, and in a way a part of the shot more than if the camera were on dolly, jib or tripod.   The camera is no longer just a window into a world, but an actual observer in the scene.  It may seem obvious, that yes, the camera is the audiences view of the story, but as a camera operator, its your personal point of view.   You are a spectator onset, with your own marks, timing, energy and physicality.   My wife, a professional dancer, often said when dancing she doesn’t think of what to do, it just happens.  Her body knows the choreography and she can simply channel the emotions through that.  This is exactly how I felt on this production.  I had never done so much handheld at once, or for so long.   2-8 minute takes, one after another for nearly a month.   Most of the shots contained a choreography between actor and camera.   You stop thinking and start feeling the shot and pace.  Jedi training stuff.

As an experiment, if you have a camera with a viewfinder, I recommend spending a significant amount of time only looking through the view finder for a day.  Once you become so comfortable with the practice of seeing the world through a small window, it becomes your second nature, then something interesting happens.   You stop thinking about the framing.  Your inner aesthetic takes over, and the frames start to find them selves.   This is where the Kung Fu comes in, not in the popular definition of a fighting style, ( a more recent definition)  but the other meaning, that is repetition and patience lead to good results.  Well, I suppose I could just say practice makes perfect… but this is a bit different.   This is letting go, and feeling the scene though the lens and letting your eye, and body make it happen without too much conscious effort.   It boils down the shot to its essence.   From there, you can make your conscious decisions to make it better.

Right now, my main goal is to apply what I learned to all aspects of my work.  Taking the elements of a shot down to their barest forms of story telling.   The lessons I learned from this experience, I think can apply to all aspects of the shot.  Light, frame, color, movement and time.  Light being the most fleeting and difficult to make a broad stroke of emotion.   Lets see where this goes.  Should be interesting.

 

Until next time.  Thank you for reading.

-Timur

 

Camera work 101: Camera Height

Welcome back to Tstops.  In this instalment I want to bring about a new section theme: Camera Work 101.  I think sometimes we take it for granted that a person learning (myself included) just “knows” a very simple basic thing.   Sometimes I wish someone had just told me about certain aspects of cinematography when I was starting out.   Often a lot of talk is thrown around for Lighting, Composition, Lens choice, Exposure, and color… But one thing thats far more subtle, but contributes a lot to a shots look, is camera height.

Camera height does a couple things, it controls lens distortion and it controls foreground and background composition.

For example, on a long lens, where facial distortion is at a minimum, you can afford to use camera height to select where the horizon falls in the background. Now this may seem a trivial element, but it can have big implications if used thoughtfully.

Another example, On a wider lens, using pan and tilt to center the lens on the background, you accomplish your proper head room in the frame using the camera height.  When you do this, you don’t somehow feel the width of the lens, simply that something is “special”.   This is a Technique Roger Deakins uses on a regular basis. He tends to shoot with slightly wide angle lenses for some medium closeup shots, but his use of composition, and camera height, corrects for the distortion and the lens.

A good example of the use of camera height and its effect on framing (inspired by a blocking study done by filmmaker John Hudson)  is the hunting scene from No Country for Old Men, where the main character Llewelyn Moss stumbles upon $2,000,000 of apparent drug money in a briefcase. The first shot, where he is unaware of the impeding danger, Deakins uses the large sky, a relatively wide lens, and creates a feeling of expansiveness and solitude, ie safety.

 

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A wider angle lens, centered does not distort so much. Giving you a great perspective on the background, while looking natural.

 

As the scene progresses, the camera work shifts a bit, as the lenses start to get longer, the horizon begins to shift higher into the frame, showing more and more of the terrain. Grounding the character in reality, and making the desert seem smaller, or rather… more mysterious.

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Once Llewelyn realized the amount of danger he is in, the horizon is nearly invisible, giving the sense that he can’t “see” the bad guys coming any longer.  Remember, on screen, the audience only sees what you show them. If you obscure the background, it adds a sense of mystery, because the audience is denied the special ability in film to see the bad guys before the character does.

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The tree itself in the frame above actually obscures most of the frame adding to the mystery effect. This indicates the camera is at least as high as the lower hanging tree branches, well above Llewelyn’s eyeline.

 

 

 

In general, for classic hollywood coverage, the camera height, by center of lens for a portrait shot should be somewhere around the actors lip level.  For women, its not a bad idea to be level with the eyes or even slightly above.  In combination with with a longer lens, somewhere in the 50-100mm range (65 being my favorite), its very flattering to faces.

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Screen Shot 2015-02-23 at 2.06.31 AM His shot is Level with the Lips. Hers is level with the eyes.

Much like in the Roger Deakins example i just showed, the camera height can have quite an effect on the psychology of the shot.  However, when you start to reach  levels outside the normal range of heigh, be mindful of eyelines.  The only time you can somewhat forgo an eyeline is with very extreme cases of low angle, or high angle shots.

Most filmmakers know what the visual language the extreme high angle and low angle shot say, but I will briefly discuss them.  The high angle shot is often used to make a character seem small, powerless and weak.

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The opposite is true, when you need to assert a sense of power to a character. I mean, quite frankly, if you have a hero…. You shoot him low angle, hence “Hero Shot”.

 

spiderman spiderman2_de5LOWNAGLE ReseviorDogsLOWangle LowangleFury LowAngleBAtman LOWANGLE ArnoldLowangle low_angleBANE LOWANGLE

I think the point has been made.  Its a simple technique that works.  Its part of the basic language of cinema that audiences are accustomed to, and they know what it means when they see it.

Now, at any point once the basics have been mastered, you have room to experiment and be creative with how you use the language to tell the story.  Not all high angle shots indicate weakness.  Sometimes its to help show elements of the environment. For example, this is from a film I worked on called “Pepper and Paul“.  The high angle shots are there to give a sense of the two characters contrasting lives, not necessarily that either is in a position of weakness.

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Learning how and when to break the basic rules is the fun part of the job of a cinematographer.   Hopefully this brief overview gave you some new ideas. Thank you for reading!

-Timur

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Coming up: Exposure and why we are all doing it so wrong… but so right……

 

 

Work Log: Cinemagraphs – The fine line between Photo and Film.

Welcome back to Tstops!

In this installment I’m going to talk about a very interesting shoot I did for TheVerge.com and Director Noah Shulman.   It was for the Samsung sponsored holiday gift guide.  We needed to create about a dozen “Cinemagraphs”.  That is to say, still images, in which a small moment is in motion.   It’s interesting to me because its the true hybrid of photography and Film.  In order for the effect to work, the subject, Aloe Blacc, had to remain motionless with exception of one small element of his person, or a moving element in the scene.  If he was to shift about, the effect would be ruined.

Here are the assembled Cinemagraphs in one video for easy viewing: but please click here to see them in context on the site.

It felt a bit like shooting oldtimey large format, where everyone in the room had to remain absolutely motionless and the effective “shutter” was 2-6 seconds.  We needed one actual still moment, then a few seconds to capture the motion. The two images were then composited, converted to GIF, and made into the Cinemagraph you see in final presentation.

 

Setup for an overhead shot.

 

We shot on RED Dragon at 6K full raster 5:1 Compression.  The lowest compression and the highest resolution we could go.  This was to ensure the post production pipeline had the most information to work with, as far as resolution for scaling, denoise, and compositing.

Lighting was nothing particularly out of the ordinary, we utilized the north facing windows of the studio for a constant and even daylight glow, and augmented when needed with an ARRI M18 1.8K HMI with a Chimera and 2″ Egg Crate to suppress spill.  We also had my new favorite light of all time, the Dedo 150.   Its been said, if given the option of two lights to shoot with, you pick a giant light… and a tiny light.  The Dedo is my new tiny light.   So unbelievable practical.  It provided most of the “edge” light you see in the setups.

This was a fun shoot for a new medium and I’m happy to be able to share the experience.

Until next time,

-Timur

 

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Work Log: 4 Commercials.

Welcome back to Tstops!

About 2 months ago, I had the opportunity to work on five very different commercials, within about a 1 month span. 2x Fashion spots, 1 Toy commercial,  1 spot for Sesame Street and finally a sneaker commercial with a cross marketing twist. I found these five commercials very interesting as they were each so different.   Different styles, directors, locations and circumstances.  It was really fun to shoot with so much variety.

 

Lets start with the first fashion Spot.

1: “Ties That Bind” For Bradford and Young; Luxury accessory maker, directed by Jennifer Massaux.

Shot on Alexa Studio with Zeiss Super Speed MK I lenses.  This is the Alexa with the optical viewfinder and Spinning mirror shutter.  It’s wonderful having an optical viewfinder, feels so much better than a EVF.

This shoot really is a great culmination of many elements.   We shot in the Presidential suite of the Waldorf Astoria Hotel, with Victoria’s Secret model Sarah Stephens.  How could we go wrong?  Beautiful talent, beautiful location, beautiful camera and lenses.  Jennifer, our director, is one of the fastest and best prepared directors I have had the pleasure of working with.   She got access to the location weeks before the shoot, and shot an Iphone previs with Artemis shot by shot, then animated it so it had a sense of pacing.   This meant that I had the advantage of being able to know exactly how long each shot needed to be.  Thus, we could focus on making each of those moments as perfect as possible.  The catch on this shoot was the fact that we only had 6 hours to shoot the whole thing, load in to tail lights.   Having concise shots, and frames already established just let us focus so intensely on exactly what we needed and nothing else.   I used the latitude of the alexa to its fullest using the natural sunlight, and shaping the contrast in the room with black floppies and a 1.8K ARRI M18 with a Chimera as selective fill.

Take this shot for example:

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The main ambient is sunlight, with a side kick from the M18.  Lighting Diagram from below. I rated the camera at 800, then dropped in an ND .9 and on some shots an ND .3 to keep the lens around a T2.8.  There was also a 1/8th Hollywood Black Magic Filter in play as well as a 1/4 Pearl Filter.  The HBM filter is a combination of 1/8th Classic HD Soft, and 1/8th Black Promist.  It softens the already soft highlights, and helps keep the models skin looking completely flawless.  The pearl filter is similar to the Blackmagic, but includes white diffusion, making it glow a bit.  The Pearl was used in the bedroom,  the HBM was used in the darker scenes.

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I am very happy with how this piece came out.  It goes to show, putting amazing things in front of the camera is far more important than the camera itself.

Tom Wong IATSE lcl600 DIT did the grade in DaVinci.  He is a stellar colorist, and really knocked it out of the park.

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In reality this was a fashion shoot, but it was 90% beauty, the direction I really want to go in.

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2: “Fall Fashion” for HSN, directed by Little Marvin

This was more or less a classic commercial.   Big studio, big lights, crafty table, canvas chairs and 10 monitors….

Over the course of the last few years, the Home Shopping Network has been trying to freshen up their look while retaining their signature style.   The challenge on this shoot was time management.   We had three models, and 10 looks each, all shot in 60Fps 6K HD.  It worked out to about 15min per look, and we had 30 looks to get in the can. We shot 27 128GIG mags that day.  3 TB of footage.  The only way we’d make it out alive was to have our media work flow down packed.   I purchased a USB3 Redmag reader, and two 4TB G-RAID thunderbolt HDD daisy chained to my macbook.   I had to use my own computer cause i know it worked,  I had ample time to test it.  Each card was offloaded and double backed up in 21 Minutes.  It fit perfectly in the 10 hour day.   It worked out to about 3 cards per hour, and the loader was running cards back the instant they came out of the camera.  The RED mags were hot when they left the camera and still warm when they came back.

The director Little Marvin ( thats his legal name) asked for a contradiction…. He wanted a soft, yet hard light.   I knew exactly what he wanted.  He wanted a Briese light look.  However, there were none in Tampa at the time.  So i did my best to improvise.  I used a single source 10k fresnel, pushed it through a 4×4 frame of 250 Diffusion with a 1ft hole in the middle, and over that hole I had the gaffer tape a scrap of opal diffusion.   Then, that was cut into the vignette you see by taking two 4×8′ black foamcore boards with two semi circles cut into the center, when placed side by side it creates a circle about 6 feet across.   That was placed just out of frame, and the result is a small bit of hard light punching through the opal, mixed with the broad soft light of the 250 around it, then cut into a theatre spot light like circle by the foam core.  see below for a diagram.  You get the clarity and specular highlights in jewelry, while still being kind to the model.   In fact, i find hard lights on truly beautiful faces accentuates the features.  Just look to old hollywood.  Softer lighting is kinder to faces that are not “perfect”, though still looks great on anyone.

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I rated the V2 OLPF RED Epic Dragon at ISO 800 and used a Formatt 1/2 CTB filter in the Mattebox. (read more about why I used the Blue filter here) I also installed a Red Cine X replication of Juan Melara’s KODAK 2393 LUT.  We shot on a Fujinon Cabrio 19-90 and I allowed the image to slightly overexpose.  The dragon has so much dynamic range I was never in danger of clipping the skin tones.   I did this to help soften the skin.  As the lut compressed the highlights, it flattens out the brighter tones, in effect clarifying the variations in the models skin.   Plus since we were using a single source, it helped me get a bit extra light into the shadows to retain a bit of the information.

I find the RED Dragon sensor to behave much more like photochemical film than video.  Its much more “alexa” than MX chip.  Its dynamic range is way up top.  Especially with the new V2 OLPF.   Just like 35, the best way to get a thick negative is to open up a half stop or stop, then “print” down in development.  Or in the Dragon’s case, RCX.

The nearly 15 hours of footage boiled down to what you see. A :30 second spot.

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3: “Come Play” – Sesame Street – Directed by Koyalee Chandra.

I have had the fortune to shoot a full on broadcast spot for Sesame Street.  It was for their new show in an after school time slot.

The main challenges on this shoot is that when working with the muppets, there are so many constraints to framing, camera height and special needs to the Muppeteers.   That said Koyalee our director envisioned a moving camera, and some “stunts”…..  This means special setups. My favorite thing in the world!!!  We built for the shots of grover a dual Dolley, that moved together, parallel so the Muppeteers can operate grover on one dolley, with their monitors and tools, while the camera was bolted to that dolley on a perfectly parallel track with speed rails, and the camera can maintain the appropriate frame.

We shot in Carroll Park in Brooklyn.   The day was sunny, and utilising the dynamic range of the Dragon ( I keep talking about it because its such an important and freeing aspect of the camera) all we needed was a bit of fill light bring up the character, without having to worry about a forest of flags and nets.  Outdoors in direct sun, a 4K par HMI with 1/4 CTO and some opal diffusion provided us with enough punch to lift the shadows against a back lit sun.   The highlight retention keeps the image looking natural, while saving us time and effort.   We planned the day so that as the sun moved across the sky, we shot the different pieces so all the scenes were back lit then filled in, maintaining a consistent look, despite a constantly changing sky.

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 We shot with a custom look, based on REDLOGFILM that I built in RCX to give the post team a nice starting place from which to work.  A simple 709 look.

I enjoyed the technical challenge of making simple camera moves cater to the complexity of working with the Muppets.

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4: “TMNT Crossover Shoe” – FILA – Directed by the Diamond Brothers. Shot on RED Dragon V1 OLPF (for low light sensitivity) with Fujinon Cabrio and Duclos 11-16.

This was my first Shoe commercial.  Working again with the Diamond Bros, we had a very fun shoot, albeit short cause the final spot is only 15 seconds.  We needed the look and feel of Sodium vapor lamps, so we used a 9K Maxi Brute, placed relatively far from the set, at the same height as the actual street lights on the street we shot on.  This ensured the angle, and shadows would fall naturally, while giving us the output we needed to achieve the slow motion shots and wide shots equally well.  I skinned the Maxi in Urban Vapor 2, a somewhat green/yellow gel that matches Sodium vapor while maintaining a degree of color accuracy.  Roger Deakins used these gels on Tungsten lights for “In Time” to make the film feel like Los Angeles at night. It pays to read American Cinematographer, its full of great information.     For the Over head shots we rigged the camera to the Condor, and raised it up to the appropriate height with a “grip saver” offset.

Screen Shot 2014-08-26 at 5.01.09 PM

(Again, sorry for the lack of pictures of the setups, damn phone…..)

The Condor was then repurposed to a lighting platform after that shot was completed.  To prevent too many shadows from crossing the set at various intensities, we black wrapped the street lights selectively to build the ambient light level we wanted, and it really helped to balance the scene.

We also used the Low Angle Prism again, to get the camera appear to be nearly floor level for the dolly shots and shoe shots.

I love shooting night exteriors, sadly we had to buy stock footage of the city for the night aerials.   Budget didn’t allow for a chopper shoot….

 

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All in all it was a crazy few weeks, but I got to try so many new tools, techniques and lighting styles.

 

Thanks for Reading!

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Thanks for reading!

-Timur

Coming soon: A through assessment of the RED Dragon.